By Dr. Lee Dubs
One of a group of writers who want to encourage people to be better prepared when they move to Ecuador, Dr. Dubs is a long-time resident of Cuenca. This article is one that reflects the observations of local and foreign residents who have seen too many distressed North Americans in Ecuador. These writers hope to help more immigrants arrive fiscally and psychologically prepared for their move by providing facts about life in Ecuador. This article addresses the issue of expat emigration from the country.
You can find a lot of articles that tell you that Ecuador is the perfect place to retire. Plenty of writers encourage you to move to Ecuador, and many want you to make that move for reasons of their own. Some even use words like “thousands” when wanting you to believe how many English speakers live in particular areas, implying that language and culture will present no problems. Astute readers recognize a sales pitch by those who intend to make a profit from their move. One fact that few writers reveal is that not everyone is happy and that large numbers of English speakers have left and are continuing to leave Ecuador.
Starting in late 2008 and early 2009 international travel readers encountered a plethora of articles extolling the virtues of moving to Ecuador, and North Americans by the hundreds heeded the siren’s call. By 2012, some profit-driven organizations and paid writers were claiming that there were over four thousand expat English speakers living in the city of Cuenca alone. They cited figures from government agencies, not explaining – and sometimes not even knowing – that government figures only show how many temporary and permanent visas, as well as national I.D. cards, were issued over the years, not how many expats are actually living in the country or in any given city. While some Latin countries such as Mexico and Panama do have large English-speaking “colonies,” any purported massive English-speaking communities in Ecuador is a myth. Numbers are much smaller than those extolled by the profit seekers and the ill-informed.
It is a fact that there is significant emigration (departure) by North Americans from Ecuador. Although there are no statistics to reveal how many expats have left the country for good, there is a growing belief that the number of English speakers who are leaving Ecuador is growing, while the number arriving had been shrinking by late 2014. One official from the Ecuadorian Ministry of Foreign Relations confirmed to this writer last year that applications by North Americans for resident visas were declining.
One indicator of the drop in immigration into Cuenca by foreigners and also by returning Ecuadorians has been a dramatic slowdown in new construction. Multi-unit buildings sit unfinished and buildings that were scheduled to be constructed are on hold. In some cases, houses were demolished to make way for high-rise buildings, but only rubble sits on the lots.
A second barometer of continuous emigration is the almost daily list of sales on English websites of furniture, appliances, cars, and other goods by those who are leaving the country for good. Expats who have lived in Ecuador a few years or even a few months are saying adiós.
Why are so many Americans and Canadians who came to make Ecuador their home pulling out? What has changed their minds? What are the causes of the accelerating emigration? Reasons vary with individuals, but there are some factors that have been cited frequently by emigrants.
Cost. Many North Americans moved to Ecuador without first making an exploratory trip or doing their homework, choosing to believe often exaggerated figures they had read. Large numbers of immigrants were surprised to find the cost of living higher than they expected, and their budgets were not prepared for reality. Ecuador requires individuals to show proof of a minimum of $800 per month of steady income to acquire a resident visa, a figure that was unrealistically low when it was established in 2003 and which has never been adjusted, even for inflation. Immigrants soon realize that living well requires more than $800 per month. There are different ways to describe how one goes about one’s economic life abroad: living comfortably, subsisting, or surviving. Numerous immigrants have sought methods to create in-country income to supplement their budgets. Most have discovered the complications and expenses of operating a business abroad. Those who operate “under the radar” run the risk of heavy fines and deportation.
Insufficient income is one reason a lot of expats either find a cheaper place to live, go back home with reduced expectations, or stay and maintain a lowered standard of living. It is cheaper to live here than in North America, but it is not as cheap as many were led to believe.
Culture. This is the most common reason for leaving. The pitches that encourage a move to Ecuador focus on cost and are generally scripted to appeal to those with no significant foreign experience. The presentations make it sound as if living in a place such as Ecuador is like a cheap combination of Shangri-La and Utopia rolled into one. To entice foreigners to head to Ecuador, promoters paint warm impressions and often include photographs of beautiful architecture, sandy beaches, and smiling people, where foreigners walk hand in hand with faces aglow. It’s the rose-colored glasses approach. Who doesn’t want a perfect and affordable retirement?
Many people who never even experienced another culture in their own country believe they are ready to live abroad. After their move to Ecuador, they quickly discover that having lived where there were Spanish speakers in one’s own country is not the same as living in their country and experiencing their culture 24/7. Even trying to avoid the locals and immersing yourself exclusively with fellow expats – as some attempt – cannot protect you from the challenges and frustrations of living in a foreign culture day after day after day.
Some expats suffer culture stress from the lack of certain amenities they were used to in their home country. Some emigrants have said that they could not live where there was not a Wal-Mart, for example. Ecuador’s growing list of bans on imported products cuts deep with many expats who can no longer get the “right” brands of mayonnaise, cat food, ketchup, sauces, and a lot of other products. They must buy local brands and often have to adjust to different tastes.
Living in a country whose language is different presents daily frustrations. One writer implied that most Ecuadorians speak English because they almost all study English in school. How are you with the French you studied in high school? Are you ready to chat in French? After all, you studied it. No, most Ecuadorians do not speak English, and foreigners who know little or no Spanish are at a disadvantage and must deal with never-ending frustration.
It is not unusual to encounter expats who cannot or will not accept the changes that face them. They resist their host culture as long as they can, finally realizing they cannot change it and that they will never be happy there. Such realists leave, usually returning to the comforts of their “real home.” Some continue to stay in spite of their growing misery, and anyone within earshot knows how unhappy they are. Fortunately for everyone, most of those finally give up and depart, too.
The daily challenges of living in a foreign culture lead many immigrants to experience culture tension, culture stress, and even culture shock. A remedy for many is simply to get out.
Health. Even with good health care, some immigrants simply get sick and stay sick. Test after test and medication after medication do not provide solutions to their chronic condition. Continuous nausea, diarrhea, weight loss, and other symptoms make for miserable living. Even those who love their new country have to give up and leave.
Homesickness. There are a lot of expats who leave for a fourth reason. They may enjoy life in the new country, but they miss their friends, their children, and their grandchildren too much. Daily contact through email, Skype, and phone calls is not enough. South America, in particular, is too far from “home,” and they finally decide to return in order to be with their loved ones. They thought the distance would not trouble them a lot, but it did.
Note: Homesickness is sometimes the reason given for leaving, when the underlying issue is culture stress. People do not want to return to their native country and hear, “I told you so.”
Crime. In spite of denials by some writers, the types of crime that affect expats are increasing. A representative of one for-profit group answered a question about all the bars and gratings on windows by explaining (presumably with a straight face) that they have nothing to do with crime; they are there to prevent broken windows from all the soccer balls the children kick in the streets. Many expat residents have suffered various degrees of crime, some violent; and it sent them packing. There have been increasing reports of everything from “grab and run” thefts and daylight assaults to home invasions in which people were terrorized, sometimes tied up, and threatened with weapons. Even coming home to find their place ransacked can be the final straw to anyone who is already feeling stressed. Who can blame those who suffer such trauma for leaving?
What is the common denominator to all of the above? Choice. Every North American immigrant in any country chose to move there, in spite of occasional excuses about “having to leave” for economic or political reasons. Every immigrant who arrives voluntarily in someone else’s country chooses to stay or leave. The point of this article is to inform readers that more and more are choosing to leave Ecuador for various reasons. Think before you move.
Living in a foreign country is not for everyone, regardless of how rosy a picture is painted from outside. People who finally admit to themselves that they are not happy in another country choose what to do about their dilemma. Increasing numbers are deciding to leave and to seek happiness elsewhere. Some of us who are happy to live abroad have chosen to write about the realities of life in another country. We want to help people arrive prepared. We do not wear rose-colored glasses.
For consistently accurate information, two good websites are CuencaHighLife.com, as well as SouthofZero.com.
Many people move here knowing it will be a temporary move. Some plan to stay for a year or two, some for 5 years. It is an adventure and most will build experiences and memories to take home with them. My daughter and I came with those expectations and we are loving our time here. We sometimes talk about not going back but we have only been here 4 months so we will wait and see. Not every one leaves due to failure to acclimate or thrive here and those people will miss Ecuador, their life here and the friends they made. But family ties are strong and are also important.
That’s easy to believe, Pat. I’ve lived in 2 countries besides my own and in both cases, they were temporary. One of them, I must admit, I want to spend the rest of my life in but it isn’t easy to get in. So I’ve thought of coming to Ecuador. I don’t have the required monthly income yet but I’m working towards it. Believe me, I’ll manage on that $800 per month (hopefully much more). I’ve had to do it here at home, I can do it there. Besides, I won’t come unless it’s more, and it won’t be forever.
Anyway, great article but… we know you live happily there. And it’s great that you want to make a non-rose-colored-glass contribution. But, hop down from your high horse a tad. We know you don’t want Ecuador to become more crowded.
I’m a widower and retired airline pilot. I speak some Spanish and my desire is to be fluent. I don’t want to be an “ugly American”. I don’t want to live in a pocket or “hot spot” of expats. I have been to Paraguay three times, Bolivia, Peru and Guatemala; to minister, not as a tourist. As a Christian, my goal would be to minister (help) locals, not to “preach” or “evangelize” in that sense.
I don’t know if I will be there for a year, two, five or the rest of my life. That will depend what the Lord has planned for me and my children and grandchildren.
In other words, I’m not naive about moving to Ecuador and another culture.
Hi just happened upon this page and as a born again believer who in constant N prayers, I wished to know if you might be interested in contacting me per your ministry. Have burden for the babes In Brazil N made contact with the clinic there. Love to commune with you if ur R willing N as Spirit leads. Shalom Shalom MoriYah
so refreshing to hear words spoken about living in Ecuador from a different source than those promoting international living. We’ve been here over three years and plan on staying. Only took us four months to remove the rose colored glasses and after adjusting we find living here on the coast of Ecuador is the life for us.
Hate the way these authors assume everyone is retired and has grandchildren. Very narrow minded. Also, what about all the Europeans in Ecuador?? They don’t count now do they?? Only Canada/US counts!!
I think you miss Lee’s point totally, he is simply stating his experience after living many years in Ecuador, and in fact there are very few Europeans living here compared to Americans, and most are retired. The majority of us DO have grandchildren and as Lee said, some just miss home. My guess is, he hit a sore spot in your plans.
No, Gin, I didn’t necessarily see a “sore spot” in someone’s plans. What I did read into it was a frustration those of us who are not yet retired and who do not have grandchildren feel when we read these things. We’re not all cut out of the same cloth.
Learn to deal with people from different walks of life. Most have grandchildren — but not all.
I can understand your frustration of wanting to retire and perhaps unable to, but once again Lee is simply pointing out how many gringos have no idea of what they are getting into. As to “dealing with other people”, I spent 20 years in Asia doing business and have many Hindu, Buddhist, as well as Moslem friends scattered from India, to Indonesia. Perhaps that is why I understand Dr. Dubs point.
I agree – why should someone feel obliged to wait until they are retirement material to live abroad? Never put off until tomorrow what you may be able to do today. Tomorrow is promised to no one.
Janet, there is some truth in what you say, I myself have left the place I was born 3 different times never know how long I would be gone or if i would return. I also lived on a cruising sailboat for 6 years. But we are all different, and all have different stories, some have jobs they have worked on for years, families, and other reasons. I wanted to retire at 50 but it simply did not work out. Be sure to keep in mind that any adventure has to be financed, so that many of us depend on SS as part,so you have to be at least 62 to get the min. I would not advise any couple to move here with less than $1500/mo and of course no debt. Younger people that I know here, usually don’t make it, as they think they can work——that is one filled with traps—-and find it is a hard task. But keep your spirit of adventure and i am sure you will figure how yours.
The problem is that a lot of countries have protection in place for work done by their nationals, and a lot of the local jobs don’t pay what they would in other countries. If you have real needed skills (the local vet in my Nicaraguan town is a Kazakh), then you can find a niche if you speak the local language (or want to live in an expat colony).
For most Americans, the Peace Corp is probably the best option for having a job overseas. The worst fantasy is running a small hotel.
If you’re independently wealth, you can pretty much go anywhere. If you need to work, you really need to know the local language very well. Expat ghettos tend to be expensive.
Agreed.
Excellent article and spot on. I met Lee and wife Carol 5 years ago in Cuenca and he and I had the same thoughts on people moving to Ecuador based on some magazine that told them how great it was, cheap, no problem whatever. If you have never traveled, I don’t me a tour of France or some cruise line, but a backpack, riding buses, trains, ferries, and a few bicycle taxis, then you need to be very careful before you leave your home. Many are simply not psychologically prepared for such a move. I lived 6 years on a sailing vessel, but never encouraged anyone else, as what works for one, is disaster for another.
Para mi es muy interesante conocer y saber mas el porque tantos extranjeros estan interesados en Vivir en el Ecuador a paesar de los diferentes problemas que el Ecuador presenta es muy llamativo para personas del Exterior agradezco este Articulo
You can make a happy fulfilling life in Ecuador if you make a serious effort to learn Spanish, get out and do something every day and interact with all kinds of people. You have to be able to deal with your frustrations about cultural differences, have a very good sense of humor, and on some days have a whole lot of patience. You also have to get used to Ecuadoran products and services. You have to say to yourself almost every day that it is not the USA or whatever country you are from and you have to be able to embrace that.
Really liked your view, very realistic and to the point.
I am, however, in full agreement with the article and most responses. Whoever you are and whatever your situation, you do indeed have to do your due diligence before leaving home. The most important questions are those you ask yourself:
– Do you like being surrounded by people from another culture?
– Even if you always did, will you like living every day in their culture, not your own?
– Did you take at least one preliminary trip before moving?
– Are you willing to learn the language? (No assumptions here and no “They all speak…” Are you willing?)
– Do you have a regular way of communicating with your family and friends back home? Get one.
– Are you willing to do everything possible to make new friends?
– Are there any particular brands of food or other products from “back home” that you feel you cannot live without? Because you may have to.
– Do you have enough income to make it comfortably each month? You should have gauged what this would be from your on-the-ground research. If you feel you do, but it’s still modest… Are you willing to live more modestly than, perhaps, other expats there do?
– Do you get excited at the thought of living in your new country? Did you feel that excitement after your preliminary trip(s)? (Don’t discount this one; it has to stay with you the entire time.)
Ok, that’s my 2+ cents. Comes from direct experience. (And I can’t wait to move back abroad.)
One of the best articles I have read and I appreciate it. The International Living magazine makes everything sound so rosy. I have lived in many Central and South American countries (20 years) and am fluent in Spanish…definitely looking forward to checking out Ecuador. Retirement is 2 1/2 years off!!! Thinking about Loja or Cotacachi. Cuenca is just too big for me though I have lived in many huge cities in Latin America.
You will do well, as you know what you are getting into. We live in Cotacachi, into our 3rd year and like it better all the time, but we knew what we were getting into. Lee and I have shared many discussions along this line. Happy to tell you what we have found out——-good and bad.
I agree with Lee. I didn’t realize the degree of frustration a person can experience until I traveled to Vilcabamba with a newbie. This woman had strong ideas about why she HAD to leave the US. “They” were going to declare Martial Law and close the borders! Cough…
This is not a reason to move to another country. There has to be some reason to want to BE there… not just an escape from a perceived reality.
As an aside, when I lived in Oaxaca, Mexico, I found the majority of expats wanted to be there, spoke some of the language and enjoyed the culture.
Back to the newbie. The whole trip was one of frustration because she couldn’t ask for anything and had to rely on me. This also meant I had to be by her side, which wasn’t in my plan. The frustration prevented any enjoyment of her surroundings. She was genuinely unhappy. I recommended she did not move here.
Excellent article, we will be arriving sometime in the first quarter of 2015. My wife and I made sure we did not put on the Rose colored glasses when doing our research. Our careers were the cause of us moving to several states overs the years, we always looked at our moves as an exciting time in our journey. Even here in the states there are many cultural differences, we were able to adapt, try moving from fast pace New York to Texas. It taught us to slow down and enjoy life which Texan’s certainly do. The language is our biggest concern, but we are taking steps to minimize our adjustment in this are. Taking Spanish lessons, researching for the best APP to translate for us when needed. Thank you for this article, it not going to discourage us and we look forward to hopefully meeting some of you when we arrive.
Well done article. Wake up and smell the foreign aroma. Did Lief and Katherine approve your message? ciao
Very informative article,, I have enjoyed all the comments. I will be making a trip to Ecuador sometime this next week.. Sometime between Wed, and Fri.. I will be driving from Chiclayo, Peru to investigate my options about relocating to Ecuador,,, I have had enough of Peru and I am not being negative,, Just happens to be the case and closure to a lot of problems. I am looking forward to the next venture after 7 years of being in one place.. Roger
I lived in Ecuador 9 years — 4 of them in Cuenca — and the reason I left was that after working in Ecuador, owning and selling 2 different homes, living in 3 different kinds of cities or villages AND loving it, there was simply nothing more I could do in Ecuador that I hadn’t done. Yes, I spoke Spanish and was comfortable with the culture and the people and after returning to the U.S., there are many things I miss about Ecuador and many things that are far better done in Ecuador than in the U.S. I also lived in Eastern Europe and at this point, I have a mixed identity. The trick of fitting into whatever culture you live in can be both easy and difficult.
Judy, what job did you do in Ecuador? I am considering going there to work but I don’t know where my skills would fit. I’ve taught English in Japan and I’m an editor and writer by trade.
Hey Judy, did not quite get the reason for departure? What were you supposed to acomplish? Seems like you are a shaker amd and a mover and needed larger horizons to conquor. Not being negative here. Myself, did relatively little in life so not throwing stones. I just want to stay healthy and and enjoy a little patch of life without someone on my tail beeping the horn because the light changed a microsecond before.
Rod
Three cheers for you Judy, this is what I want to read. When you come from one of the highest rate n crime cities in the world (Johannesburg), it’s going to be not better than home. When you make the choice to relocate be it for a short or long term, your day to day issues becomes part of your day to day life, what you come take back with you is far greater than that. Fortunately where I come from we’re not spoilt, we work hard for alittle, we are good at what we do, we live reasonably comfortable lives despite that Rand being 13.65 to the dollar and we have much to be proud off. I don’t relocate to stay but to enjoy the journey that I’m fortunate to have. I have an option to Teach Prague, China, Malta but I choose Ecuador and I do so with both eyes opened.
Very good and balanced article. I think that, perhaps, the paragraph on crime here was a tad heavy-handed. It’s not like any city of similary size in the US is even remotely as safe, overall, as Cuenca. I know crime exists here, but comparatively speaking, it’s “no big thang.”
I can completely agree with the section on medical care. I’m sure there are good doctors here; I just seem to be having a hard time finding one that will treat a serious condition with any kind of a sense-of-urgency. One doctor adjusted my diabetes meds, and then had me cut on of the existing meds in-half. Well, that call cost me a little bit of permanent nerve damage. At least two other doctors I’ve enountered have given me adivce that, if I had followed it, would have resulted in further serious complications. A few docs have been downright rude and dismissive, even after paying a healthy sum of cash for tests whereby the “specialist” who carried out the test was unable to accurately interpret the results. So… I’m likely headed up to the US for some free medical care (I’m retired military). I will come back, of course, but at this point the quality of medical care here leaves a little bit to be desired. IF the docs here were more open to listening to you and letting you participate in your own healthcare decisions, that would be a good start in the right direction. At least I have a greate Cuencana massage therapist.
I do have to roll my eyes a bit in reference to the post about “running out of things to see and do” in Ecuador. I suppose that’s one way to look at it, assuming you moved here for the purposes of crossing things off a to-do list. I moved here for personal economic reasons (plus a dash of adventurism). To be blunt, I can afford to live here without working, which is something I cannot do in the US. (My motto is to retire as early and as often as you can.) In other words, I didn’t move from the US because I “ran out of things to do.” Cuenca is my home now, not a checklist. When I go back to the US, I do look forward to coming back “home.”
One thing I recently found very interesting is how angrily some expats took the April Fools’ joke about Ecuador requiring Spanish proficiency tests. I thought it was an excellent joke, very much in the spirit of traditional April-first Foolery. From what I can tell, the people who freaked out over the joke were those who’ve put little or not effort into learning the language of their new home, and in many cases have no desire or intention of ever doing so. I find this to be very sad. On the other hand, these are the very people the article spoke of, and many of them will be gone within a year or so. If it were up to me, next year on April 1 someone would make the joke that the Cuenca government officials were going to require a large percentage of expats to abandon Gringolandia and assimilate into a real Cuencano barrio. Can you imagine…?
.
Jeff, very interested in speaking with you. I have recently retired from service after 25 years. Currently living in Germany but have always wanted to return/retire to Central/South America. All of my research narrows that to Panama and Ecuador. I am guessing you can guess what my monthly income is (well above the $1500 people mention) and my ease with living abroad (15 years overseas/deployed). I have no kids and only a few relatives left in the States, none of which I visit with any regularity. I do speak some Spanish (not much I admit) but survived well enough during missions in Latin America that I feel confident I could survive there if I found someone to show me the ropes and help me along until I became acclimated.
So, I suppose I am reaching out to connect with someone there to ask the more detailed questions I have. If you have time, I would appreciate your input.
Hey Jeff. Enjoyed your commentary. I also am former military. Retired now, in Atacames, Esmeraldas Province. Been here 8 years, living on the ocean which has always been my dream. Not rich, so Miami was out. jajaja. Anyway, I hear you about the poor medical care you spoke of. I am wondering if the hospitals in Quito are more modern and of a better quality. I do have a dentist in Quito, who is about as good as I could ever ask for. And trust me, I know dentists, from having spent mucho $ in past years.
I am wondering about Last Will & Testament lawyers because I need to give my condo to someone here when I pass on. The simple fact is that you really can’t trust anyone here, especially in the legal field. Let me know if you have any suggestions. And I would hope to exchange thoughts and ideas with you in the future, if you want.
I am adding a response posted to Facebook:
I have lived here for almost 25 years. My philosophy has always been “consider the source”. The same people that “bitch and chew” were probably not happy with their lives wherever they lived or came from. Read this article that was in Ecuador coastal news.
Favorite Blog Series: Playas Ecuador.com “Expats Are Not Leaving Ecuador in Droves”
Published on June 3, 2015 in: by: Ecuador Coastal Newsletter |Comment |
Re-post from Blog: PlayasEcuador.comScreen Shot 2015-06-02 at 4.14.21 PM
Writer: Marc Lapierre
Expats are not leaving Ecuador in droves. I’ve been meaning to write this post for a while now, because much as I think that there is a great deal of truth in Dr. Dubs’ post, I think that it creates the erroneous impression that Expats are leaving in droves.
That’s not my impression based on my limited time here thus far and I want to comment on certain statements that the good doctor makes.
Rose Colored Glasses: Yes, there are many people, companies and publications that want you to move and encourage you to do so by painting a very rosy picture of life here.
Think about moving from say, New York to Houston or Toronto to Vancouver. Pretty big, unsettling challenge, n’est pas? Now imagine moving to another country where the laws, languages and cultures are usually vastly different from where you came from. A bit scary, right?
How is it then that some people blindly accept all the unfounded claims out there about how great and cheap life is here in Ecuador. Visiting the country is essential in my view (and not just for a couple of days or weeks) to determining if YOU, not someone else, are ready to live in Ecuador ( or any other country for that matter).
Looking at Dr. Dubs post, what is clear is that there are expats leaving, of that there is not doubt. But, those are generally those who did not adequately research their move and arrived here with unrealistic expectations or… wait for it… in the wrong place… or with the wrong person(s).
An anecdote for our past illustrates – In my research the place that kept popping up was Cuenca. What I was reading / hearing was that;
– Living in Cuenca is cheap
– There are thousands of expats in Cuenca
– Cuenca has all the modern amenities
– Buying a place in Cuenca is dirt cheap
Our number one choice for our first trip to Ecuador was to explore Cuenca. Then my wife asked a simple question, “What do I pack in the way of clothes to go to Cuenca?” I went online to check the average weather in November. Pretty damned cold. Okay, how’s the weather the rest of the year? Hmmm, rainy and cool.
Our trip came to a screeching halt as I didn’t want to move half way around the world for rainy and cool, and I really didn’t care how many expats were there freezing with me.
Youtube was an interesting source of info. Initially, I kept pulling up video after video extolling the joys of life in Cuenca, and don’t get me wrong, it is a great choice for some people. Then as I dug deeper I came across videos from expats who were sick and tired of the clouds, the rain, the cold, the lack of heaters in the houses, and so on and so on.
We ultimately settled on the coast – more on that later.
We’ve been to Cuenca (in my case twice) since we got here. Nice place to visit, but certainly not for me. Why would I want to move from one cold rainy city to another cold rainy city?
My point is – Had I blindly moved to Cuenca, I would have undoubtedly been unhappy and would have probably already left Ecuador or settled in another area.
The Significant Other / Family Relationship: This in one factor which I don’t see talked about much if at all, and that is “How strong is the family unit/relationship you’re in?”
Let’s be blunt here. If your family unit or relationship isn’t strong, if your better half isn’t your best friend, or hasn’t really bought into this idea, you might want to reconsider moving.
If you barely get along as it is in the States or Canada or wherever, or have few interests in common then that relationship is gonna be strained, no doubt about it. Keep this in mind, there are a lot fewer places and ways to hide from each other here in Ecuador than there is in the US or Canada.
If your significant other needs to spend a lot of time with family and friends on a daily basis, be aware that aunt Liz or sister Suzy are not here so you’ll likely wind up filling that gap and spending a lot more time together.
Whether it will be quality or torture time depends on your relationship.
The frustrations, the adjustments and changes that you need to make are a whole lot easier when you’re with the right person(s) and can be insurmountable if you’re with the wrong person(s).
Location, Location, Location: We’ve all heard that location is everything and it’s as true in Ecuador as anywhere else.
Dr. Dubs mentions that a sign of the exodus of expats and the drop in immigration is the slowdown in construction and the glut of finished and unfinished units on the market.
I suspect that that is written based on the situation in Cuenca, because here on the southern coast, it’s the reverse. The activity level is increasing exponentially (unfortunately). Until the Canadian dollar tanked against the US, we were seeing a significant increase in Canadians coming here to check things out. That has cooled things down a bit from the Canadian perspective, but hasn’t made a dent in the number of US residents coming down.
That there may be a drop in Cuenca is possible, but a major contributing factor is undoubtedly the cycle we see everywhere where there is demand for housing. Initially supply and demand is pretty well in equilibrium and units are built to supply the demand. As a market heats up, more and more developers jump in and build on spec, leading to a glut and too many property’s chasing too few buyers. Exactly the result that is observable in Cuenca at the moment.
Matter of fact, as I was researching Cuenca, I couldn’t help thinking this would happen and, I suspect we will eventually see that here along the coast, but that’s a ways away yet.
Economics: If your sole reasons for relocating to Ecuador are economic, you likely will not be a happy camper. As Dr. Dubs says, it’s cheaper to live here that in North America, but it depends on how you want to do it.
Want high speed internet, cable TV, recently built condo with all the amenities and, North American food? The monthly bill is more than many would have you believe.
Adaptability: I’ve done considerable international work and I an tell you that one of the most important things is to be adaptable, whether it’s in Ecuador, Romania, Africa, or elsewhere.
If you’re the type that constantly get his shorts up in a knot when things don’t go exactly as you think they should, do yourself and all of us a favor and stay home.
This is not “back home” so don’t expect it to be. Besides, if you’re that type of person, you probably bitch a lot “back home” too.
Recipe for success: Each person’s recipe for success is individual, but there are a few constant to take into account.
1. Take a close look at your relationship – Is it strong? Can you and your significant other work well together solving problems and stand to be in each other’s company for extended periods of time without wanting to kill each other? Do you both like variety and like to explore?
2. Why are you moving? Identify the real reasons why you are considering Ecuador or any other country for that matter. That or those reasons will determine what you should be looking at on any exploratory trips.
3. Put boots on the ground! Don’t rely on hearsay no matter how tempting. No two people are alike and you can only judge by going to your chosen paradise… yourself. Stay as long as possible and take a long hard look around. Don’t let the initial blush lull you to sleep.
The usual honeymoon is 6 months. Then reality sets in and sometimes, it can be a shock.
4. Decide what you need to be Happy: Living like the natives may be fun… for a night, a week, a month or forever. Decide where you fit in that range and, if you need all the comforts of home to be happy, don’t let the quaintness lull you to sleep. Sit down and look at what having all those comforts will cost. You might be in for a shock!
Okay, I could go on forever, but most of you probably get the idea.
Only you can influence whether a move will be a success or a nightmare. Prepare first, be flexible and realistic and then decide.
Aside for emergency issues, for the most part the main reason why people leave Ecuador is:
Because they didn’t prepare well before they moved here in the first place.
Make it a great day,
MarcL
I think Marc’s post is well said, although there are prob more people leaving than he might think. Three years is a mark that seems to separate those that stay and those that leave. The real estate market here in Cotacachi has slowed way down, and there was a FB post the other day with a home very reduced in Cuenca, obviously because of market lag. That person had been here for 4 years. As to where you live, of course that is choice. We moved from the beach on the Gulf Of Mexico—-hot as hell with high humidity, cold in the winter, so the climate—53 this morning suits us fine. Having grown up on the beach certainly makes a difference. The main reason I hear for people leaving, is “family” I also think that is an excuse for some that just did not like it, different culture, different language but they don’t want to admit that. We have 3 sets of friends that moved, one to Italy to be closer to their son, and two to Ireland, so people do move for other reasons. I think Marc had some advantage like ours, he has been “out in the world” more than many, and that helps. Definitely he is correct about relationship with spouse. I have heard the weather in Cuenca more accurately described as “eternal fall” as opposed to spring.
Does anyone here know any single people living in Ecuador? All I ever read about are couples. I’m a mature single woman who really wants to move abroad, I’ve lived in 2 different countries besides my own, I’ve traveled around a bit, known a lot of people from around the world, speak pretty good Spanish. But I’m single.
Posterdog
Straight foreward an from the hip, good advice. So to the point, want to move out of country, is the coast the place to focus on and keep in mind a modest retirement for one person willing to learn the language and lay of the land?
Rod
[…] of Zero, a blog about moving to Ecuador, wrote Why Are So Many Expats Leaving Ecuador? which pretty much covers the reasons people give. What no one seems to talk about is that […]
Hello All…I moved to Quito Ecuador about 3 years ago and boy has it been the BIGGEST MISTAKE of my LIFE. I am not a small man in stature in fact at 60 years old in excellent physical condition. I have been robbed on 5 separate occasions. And on this last occasion just 3 weeks ago I was attacked at the front door of my home by two men with knives that dragged me in my house with knives to my throat. When I entered the house they then proceeded to threaten my life with larger knives from my kitchen and told me they would kill me by sticking the knives deeper into my throat and chest. They then crossed my feet and taped them together very tightly so I could not stand up then taped my hands together so thight it cut the blood circulation. What occurred next was the two men drug me across the floor to my second bedroom taped my mouth and covered my entire body with a large sheet’s they obtained from my main bedroom closet. I just knew they would kill me then. But what happened was they turned on a floor fan and put it on high so I could not hear what they were doing. I laid on the floor for approximately 5 hours until I finally thought I might try to work myself out of the entanglement they put me in. When I finally was able to break loose somewhat I did not hear or see them. I shuffled myself on the floor to the nearest house phone and dialed 911. About 30 minutes later the police came and busted my door done and my good neighbors hearing the sirens came in as well and helped me get untied. After the policeman about 5 of them took my story down and walked with me through my house and I showed them everything that was stolen I figured in my head roughly at first the dollar amount that was stolen it came to around $10,000. The next day when I returned from the hospital and I checked the house thoroughly I realized much much more was stolen right at $16,000 of my personal belongings. Televisions electronics, clothes, boots, my TREK BIKE right at $3000 that I brought from the United Stares and much more. I was very thankful to be alive. Now you must try to remember yes the climate is perfect in Quito. It is NOT SO CHEAP ANYMORE. But the main thing is that this is a VERY POOR COUNTRY. THE AVERAGE WAGE IS $350 per Month. Here if you own anything nice they want to steal it from you because they never had much it their life. I cannot afford to return to the United States because I only live on my SSDI pension from the U.S. I am Diabetitic and was diagnosed with a few other serious medical conditions. You cannot trust a single Ecuadorian here as a foreigner. It is very sad that I have made the biggest mistake of my life moving here…PLEASE BEWARE!
Allen, I’m so sorry that this happened to you.
Sorry to hear this Allen, where did you live? If I go I want to avoid this area? Also, is there some place you would recommend? On moderate SSI and willing to coexist, but not have to defend myself everywhere.
Rod
Thank you posterdog, but sorry is just a word and cannot help me
That’s all I got.
posterdog
Perhaps he was hoping you would contribute to his need for money so he can return to the US. Not saying Allen is one of them but my research for a retirement location has often resulted in my seeing claims for alleged ex-pats who have experienced similar and are hinting at the need for money to return home. All advice about visiting the embassy/consulate are replied with excuses of lost papers/passports or other things and they mostly want money. Although I do agree that ANYONE living in a poorer country who displays a wealthy lifestyle makes themselves a target for thieves (why would they target poor people?), most ex-pats I’ve known who have been robbed (very few world-wide) have always been helped by friends, family and the US embassy/consulate. Nearly all claims online are people simply hoping someone will give them money.
I don’t think it is a good idea for a North American to move to Ecuador, if you are not planning to blend with the culture. You don’t need to learn perfect Spanish, but if local people perceive you as wanting to preserve your foreign culture at all costs, very likely you will find it hard be happy here, even if you have enough income.
Many immigrants of all nationalities that are living in Ecuador are very happy. Most Ecuadorians appreciate the effort to learn some Spanish and are curious about the cultural differences. I agree with you Jorge, living abroad requires some adjustment.
[…] That’s a tough question — as expats move to Cuenca for many reasons. In general, the expats who are most satisfied with their lives in Cuenca are the ones who connect with the local community, learn how to speak some Spanish and remember they’re living in a different country with a different culture and different ways of doing things. These Expats are open to the small, time-consuming adventures that can happen every day, such as trying to find a replacement screw for a kitchen cabinet from one of the local hardware stores. People moving here solely for financial reasons or trying to escape an unpleasant situation usually don’t last very long. For a list of other reasons why Expats leave Ecuador click here. […]
I have been reading your blogs with great interest. My husband and I have been living in Ecuador since November 2015. Your conclusions about living here are absolutely correct. We did a lot of research before making the move. Renting (at first) is definitely better than buying. Expats need to be prepared for the culture differences and if they want to enjoy life here. It does take some adjusting as you say! Thank you for such detailed and honest discussion.
Dear Jason and Tam, can you recommend places and roughly rent price? Very modest spanish but willing to upgrade. This is for one on modest SSI.
Thanks Rod
I am seriously considering moving to Ecuador. I don’t want to be viewed as “The Ugly American”. I have read several articles about expats creating a bad name for themselves.i also am not nieve about living in a different culture; I have been to Paraguay three times as well as Bolivia, Peru and Guatemala; all for ministry, not as a tourist. I speak some Spanish and want to be fluent and also want to be part of the culture of Ecuador. I don’t want to live in a insulated pocket of expats. As a Christian, It would be a place for me to minister (help) to locals, not ” preach” or “evangelize”.
That’s my summary of my reason(s) for moving to Ecuador.
To Ana. I’m single also. Not all people moving to Ecuador or other countries are married or have significant others.
all4himva@gmail.com
Happy you are not coming to preach and evangelize, as there is enough of that stuff. Easy to help out once you get the lay of the land, we have things we do for people all the time, we just keep quiet and do what we do because we want to.
Larry, have you made the move? I am single and I am looking at Ecuador…thx
[…] The World’s Best Places to Retire in 2016, Panama made the top of this year’s list, second was Ecuador and Mexico came in third. No snow shoveling and […]
I lived in Ecuador for 1 year 1/2, and then my son was born and we came back to the states, I tell you that I miss some things and other and happy to be here, first the negative point of view: cars are very expensive and manual, it is a pain in the neck do any type of documentation, long lines for everything!!!! some Ecuadorians they will charge you more if they see that you are an American, or don’t look like them. food is great but it can get boring and hard to find variety, then is the mosquito (dengue, chinkunguya, zika), I was very scare, but I’m like that, it will be depend in the person. lots of precarious houses, and one more thing they drive AWFUL
The good: vegetables are very good, great quality, they have a variety of medicinal plants, doctors are very friendly and professional (you have to look for them but they are) you can have a peaceful life if you don’t go to the big cities. Lot of history in different towns, cheap food, cheap rent but appliances are expensive.
Over all people are very kind and helpful, if you are prepare to live a modest life and you have the money to make trips around it is great, I will recommended, but not the beach, mosquitos !!!!!jaja, we may go back when my son grow up, in a few years, children play outside!!!!!
You MUST learn Spanish
Bently
Can you recommend a place, good weather and modest lifestyle for SSI retiree?
I enjoyed the article and I take it for what it is worth: another view with interesting information. I read thru many of the posts and saw many things repeated (maybe because it was the same people). One thing I noticed was that information was given for much of the advice (relationships, language, etc.) but one item didn’t offer detailed advice….cost. Several people posted that many are drawn to Ecuador because they are told it is cheap. The advice all mentioned that it depends on living style, location, and other factors. What nobody mentioned was a cost of living for their area. Some posters live on the coast, some in Quito, Cotacachi, Cuenca and other towns but none said that they live modestly, lavishly or middle class on $xxx per month.
As a military retiree, I have a stable income. This is one of the reasons I am drawn to retirement locations; they offer visas for government retirees. I know what my pay will be each month with no deviation. I have lived in many countries during my 25 years. Even though I was assigned to a military base which was supported by locals who speak our language decently, I often chose to explore the countries and “live off the land.” I am accustomed to learning the language and adjusting to cultures. What I need to know most of all is what to expect financially as I hear conflicting information. Some people talk about how cheap it is to buy a home and then live monthly vs. people who speak of renting. Some recommend renting first and then buying while some just rent for life. So, if you have time and don’t mind sharing, please reply with a post which states whereabouts you live, rent/buy, weather in your words, cost of living per month, style of living (modest, middle, lavish), and how you survived before you learned Spanish to a great extent. I know this will greatly help me and likely those who read the post. Thanks
First of all, you seem to have some experience living outside your home country already, so my suggestion is to take a few, maybe 3 months and travel the whole country, and since Ecuador is small that is easy. The questions you ask are certainly reasonable but have a lot of different answers depending on who you talk to. As to cost of living, that also depends. Last year we went to Europe for 5 weeks, Bolivia for a month, and my wife just returned from the States. I don’t want to think what the total expense was, as she bought a car for one child. If you choose to rent a reasonable apartment or home, you may pay from $350 to $700, depending on the area and size of dwelling. Most gringos go home every year or 18 mos, some never go so they save that expense. Some eat out only rarely thus saving a few dollars. Some buy cars, another expense, some of us ride buses and taxis and that is very cheap. As I stated visit for 3 months and you will find all the answers you are asking, and can evaluate the person offering the info. We live in Cotacachi an indigenous small village, with some would say, to many gringos.
Thanks Gin. I appreciate the information and I do plan a visit once I get some business here completed. My research tells me much of what you said in the way of rent as I monitor the Cuenca news and classifieds. I spoke with another military retiree there who said he rents an apartment, eats out daily, uses public trans/bike, and has the usual living items (phone, internet, TV, utilities) for about $1,000 per month. He was married until recently and said they were living comfortably (I took it as middle class) for $1,500 and that was only due to the norms of a couple (more food, phone, utilities, trips, etc.) but that he still lives and does much of the same things. If that is accurate, that would put Cuenca and potentially anywhere in Ecuador solidly on my radar for retirement. I have been there but it was years ago and I was a young soldier at the time. We didn’t make much in those days but I recall feeling “rich” there and in Panama, but more so there as Panama had a lot of bases at that time. I do love the culture and the lifestyle but I just want to be confident that the financial aspect is good to go. I was advised that Spain, France and Italy are great retirement places but my visits there have shown that they are almost as costly as living in the States now because the Euro is above the dollar. You know, rent might be cheap in rural Spain but, if you are paying a ton to travel, eat, utilities and other things, it adds up fast. I will heed your advice and travel to Ecuador. I doubt I can do three months because I still have things to do here but I will get boots on the ground and eyes on the target while I am there.
Cuenca is a bit more in elevation, prob gets more rain and a little cooler. I just returned from Cuenca, love Cuenca, missed seeing my bud Lee Dubs but did visit with Carol. Lots of good food, art, entertainment but maybe 500,000 so not a sm city by Ecuador standards. I think 1500 for a couple is fair, although as I said, that does not include travel. We gave up TV before we left the states in 2012 but I do like my single malt. 🙂 Good luck and feel free to contact me.
Yo Dennis
Thanks for the boots on the ground info. That 1k monthly nut sounds like my kinda stuff. Can you recommend any place or area in particular?
Thanks Rod
Thanks to all for the posts…my wife and I are starting the process with our first visit for 12 days over Christmas. Done lots of research and visits w/ expats back here in the states but as you all seem to agree boots on the ground is best. Again Big thanks for several points.
First we had settled on Cuenca but cold and rainy is not for us …Your blogs have us planning to look at warmer areas. Thank you.Please anyone some advice on better climates. We plan to Look at Loja..Advice wanted!!
Next we are glad to get the financial input. We plan to live on more than the average minimums. Next my career caused me to travel all the time…I love the adventure of a new culture. Next I speak some Spanish and want to get conversational ASAP . My wife is Chilean. so that was good to read about the emphasis on speaking Spanish. Next in this blog we are reading about crime with mixed input. Good friends of ours are from Ecuador, lived 20 years in US and now are back, they Love Cuenca and say crime is not a problem. After all Boca Raton, Atlanta, certainly Miami have spots that are unsafe. I think you need to go to Singapore to be crime free.
Again any other town recommendations are appreciated. Lastly I pay $275 / month for TV and internet and does it cost that or more below 0?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Michael
@ James,
I agree with your remark that you can’t really trust anyone there. My experience is that, as a generalization, ethics are not a strong point in L. American culture, to say the least. It is a defensive culture, centred on the family, and has few inhibitions when it comes to taking advantage of non-family or very close friends. Opportunism is everywhere. Americans are especially prized because they typically have money, are ignorant of Latin culture, and have little or no skill in Spanish. One’s word and honor are not sacred in L. America and lying is a continental vice. People lie very easily and with a perfectly straight face.
Noise is another problem. Yes, Latins like to “party”, but their concern for the privacy, quiet, and comfort of others while they indulge themselves is minimal or absent. And there is essentially no zoning or noise pollution regulation. There is a kind of pathological egocentrism in the Latin psyche. Panama and Mexico have been the worst in my experience.
Personally, I always rent and never would buy, because you cannot rely on the quality either of the neighbors nor of the surroundings. However, if you have a lot of money, these countries are great, because you can insulate yourself from their worst aspects and enjoy their best ones.
Jim sounds as if you are simply in the wrong place, as after 40 years of travel, much in Latin America, I find most people to be honest and helpful. I must wonder if you are here in Ecuador or were here, and your chief motivation was “it is cheap”. I find the people that move here because it is cheap, or among the first to complain. First of all, it is not as cheap as Inlt Liars would lead you to believe, and it goes up as the years pass. BUT some of the nicest people I have met, and that includes travel in over 40 countries, climate, the beauty of the Andes, as well as the coast and Amazon. Ecuador turns out good for about half the people that move here.
Don’t quit understand the issue, if it’s not for you move on,you are better for the experience, I don’t ask my friend if the yogurt is nice before I buy it, life is what ever you want it to be
Beware fellow expats, Ecuadorians will try to rip you off and fool you into paying more on every occasion, no jokes — that is the reason why people come to hate Ecuador. 3 out of 5 transactions I had today in Quito ended in someone trying to sell me something I don’t need, giving me 5 bucks less change than they should, etc. I lost all respect for Ecuadorians, if you want people to play fair – don’t go to Ecuador, don’t do business with them (DO NOT), honestly.
First came here 7 years ago, lived here for 5 and find the exact opposite. Go N to Columbia or S to Peru, as you obviously in the wrong place.
Thank you for the information! Interesting we were considering moving there but we may not thank you
Statistically speaking, crime and opportunistic people exist everywhere. It’s not just a Latin American problem (just saying). I’ve relocated twice and I’ve found that relocating to a new country is really like any other change in your life: Like getting a new job, moving to a new town, marrying for a second time.. It’s really what you make of it. If you go at it with the right attitude and willing to work out the kinks, meet new people and explore, it will eventually grow on you and you’ll enjoy it… On the other hand, if you keep comparing and complaining or keep questioning “why” or the way “you’re used to do things” — then you’re not ready to embrace the move. And that’s a shame because adaptation is key to survival as an expat. Relocating requires a true evaluation of your willingness to flex your existing reality and a mindful reset of expectations. Simple as that.